"S65" (granthp)
10/30/2016 at 20:25 • Filed to: Mustang, Notchback
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"S65" (granthp)
10/30/2016 at 20:25 • Filed to: Mustang, Notchback | 0
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This is just and estimate and doesn’t include labor...
I think !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! Notchback would be a good starting point, it’s the nicest looking Notchback I could find. It’s a Cummins swapped automatic and I want neither of those.
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We could use this !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! as a parts car, if the seller is to be believed the engine was just rebuilt. We could delicately remove rip out the engine. and swap it into the ‘89.
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If what I found on the forums a T-5 should bolt up to it fine. You can purchase a Heavy Duty one for $1,750.00.
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Before we forget we need a clutch, CJ Pony Parts has a clutch kit for $161.99.
We’re gonna need a !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! , once again we’ll turn to CJ Pony Parts and get one for $329.95.
As for Differentials I’ll go with a Quaife ATB Helical LSD for $1,107.23. I’m not sure if this will fit with the T5 so if it doesn’t one of you should say something.
I’d fit a Mustang Cobra steering rack, that’s $289.99.
Frankly, I don’t see the point of all this and not touching the suspension. I couldn’t find a Cobra IRS kit new, so I checked Ebay and found one for $1,299.99.
Um, I guess it would be possible to use the exhaust off the parts car, I don’t even know what to do with the front suspension. I’d keep it tuned for the street. I’m not too familiar with Mustangs...
That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
> S65
10/30/2016 at 20:31 |
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I like the way you’re thinking. If you’re going the IRS route, then you’re probably going to get fairly serious with the engine...if not then the rest is kinda overbuilt. In that case, I’d avoid a T5 and go straight to a Tremec.
There’s plenty of front end parts available, the stock setup isn’t bad at all really...drop it, new bushings, big sway bars, and you’re good to go.
If that car is 5 lug swapped then that’s a good thing too, since you’re not gonna want 4 lugs on the front of that.
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S65
> That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
10/30/2016 at 20:33 |
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Thanks! I couldn’t really figure out what to do with it, it didn’t mean that specific car so much as a clean Notchback.
crowmolly
> S65
10/30/2016 at 20:35 |
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That clutch looks like a parts store special. I would not trust it taking any type of abuse. If one goes skaboom it will run your bellhousing at best, foot at worst.
For the price of that T5 I’d look for something much stronger, like maybe a used TKO. Hell, I’d stick with the stock LSD and put all the $ into a better trans than a T5.
LSD has nothing to do with the trans, really.
Urambo Tauro
> S65
10/30/2016 at 20:39 |
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Keeping it “tuned for the street” is a good idea. Generally speaking, you’d want a kit that offers about a 1" drop, like Eibach’s “Pro-Kit”. That’s what I use, and it’s perfect for the street. I wouldn’t want to go any lower. Save the 2" drop for a track-only car.
DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time
> S65
10/30/2016 at 20:52 |
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For the front I’d look at getting a new K-member.
You’d have to look more into it, but I’ve heard that the Cobra IRS for that gen wasn’t much of an improvement over the SRA. I could easily be wrong though.
03mach1 - Now has a Fiesta ST
> S65
10/30/2016 at 21:26 |
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From what I understand while the Cobra IRS is nice, a well set up LRA has the potential to handle just as well. Might be a whole lot easier than swapping in a new IRS. Not to mention cheaper.
My Mach has SVE lower, upper control arms, koni shocks and struts, a few bushings replaced and handles great considering its reputation.
If I were building a Fox, I would throw on all new bushings, LCA’s, Maximum Motorsport UCA’s, a good set of springs, shocks, struts, sway bars and probably weld in subframe connectors. I could go on for awhile. It all kind of depends on your goals.
Leonardo DiCabriolet
> S65
10/30/2016 at 21:29 |
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When it comes to the T5 you may as well buy a used one, they go for a couple hundred bucks pretty routinely.
When it comes to differentials I haven’t heard too much about the Quaife, the usual choice for big money diff is the Torsen T2R, I personally have an Auburn unit which I quite like.
On the 03-04 Cobra parts, the steering rack is the best choice that isn’t ridiculously expensive. You would need a specific adapter to make it work on a Fox but Maximum Motorsports sells that so no worries. When it comes to the IRS, it’s really a question of how much you value ride comfort or what you’re building the car for. You can make a SRA handle as well or better than an equivalent IRS for alot cheaper. If you were deadset on an IRS, look for part outs on craigslist, wayyyy cheaper than ebay.
All that being said, do ittttt.
Frank Grimes
> S65
10/30/2016 at 21:53 |
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Is the cobra IRS better than say a thunderbird or cougar IRS? I used to have a 1989 notch and what always worried me what the massive weight of the irs.
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S65
> Frank Grimes
10/30/2016 at 21:58 |
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I don’t know, I thought it would be lighter and take to upgrades better
Neil drives a beetle and a fancy beetle
> S65
10/30/2016 at 23:49 |
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Matt Farrah recently did a one take on a LS swapped IRS fox and seemed pretty smitten, although, a large part of that seemed to be the nicer trans T56?
V8Demon - Prefers Autos for drag racing. Fite me!
> Frank Grimes
10/31/2016 at 00:07 |
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Barely.
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V8Demon - Prefers Autos for drag racing. Fite me!
> S65
10/31/2016 at 00:30 |
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I’m going to burst your bubble and you’re going to HATE me for it, but here goes.....
— The engine in that yellow car is probably stock or near stock and if it has the ‘86 specific heads (E6 casting) there commonly known as boat anchors in the fox Mustang community (not that the later 87-93 stock HO heads were that much better). Also, I can only guess as to what intake manifold that is seeing as the 86 cars came with fuel injection. I see it often enough where simple troubleshooting stumps a guy and he rips out the fuel injection and slaps a 4 barrel 650 because Racecar.... By the way the fuel injection manifolds make TONS more torque in the lower RPM range than about any carbed manifold on an otherwise stock or near stock 86-93 Ford 5.0....
— The IRS. Well.... read: http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?9299-IRS-in-a-fox-bird-test-fit-pics
You can make your own decisions. Not a Mustang in the thread, but a fox platform car nonetheless.
— As Crowmolly posted concerning the transmission: Say no to T-5!
Here, I saved you money.....
http://www.racingjunk.com/Ford/182731830/1990-Ford-Mustang.html
I think it would probably be cheaper to make some changes to this one in the long run....
Needmoargarage
> S65
10/31/2016 at 09:58 |
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I think for the scope of your build, I would avoid dealing with the IRS. You can make a solid axle Mustang chassis handle surprisingly well with a watts link and proper springs/dampers. A well-engineered panhard bar with a torque arm is also a great option. I think you would be more than happy with either of these (especially if you are not looking to be competitive in a particular road racing or auto-X class) on the street, and it would be a lot cheaper/easier/more robust.
Also...you need to consider the match between the rear and front suspension. Cobra IRS without touching the front doesn’t usually go well.
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S65
> Needmoargarage
10/31/2016 at 10:04 |
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I wasn’t really sure what to look for as far as front suspension, ride quality is a concern
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Needmoargarage
> S65
10/31/2016 at 10:37 |
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If you were set on a Cobra IRS, then you would probably want to put big money into a tubular K-frame and a nice coil over suspension. You have to remember that even though it is an IRS, it’s not a particularly great one. If you stay with a solid axle then just playing with springs, dampers, and finally sway bars should get you a pretty well handing car with good ride qualities. Stay away from solid bushings and do anything you can to stiffen up the relatively weak unibody. Also you should have some good tires...width will depend on power.
On that chassis, here’s how I would proceed:
Install panhard bar, springs, dampers, and LCAs on the rear. Remove quad shocks if you have them. Really good idea to install subframe braces as well.
Install springs and dampers on the front (appropriately matched to rear rates)
Bigger tubular front sway bar
Rear sway bar to fine tune if needed
If you aren’t happy install Torque arm. Remove rear UCAs.
If you are still not happy, spend more money on a Watts link, or IRS.
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S65
> Needmoargarage
10/31/2016 at 10:39 |
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Huh, honestly I thought it would be a bit stiffer, is that lack of stiffness a big part of the handling issues?
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Needmoargarage
> S65
10/31/2016 at 10:45 |
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Essentially every Mustang from ~79' to 04' has the structural rigidity of a wet noodle. Subframe braces and such can help stiffen it up.
Additionally, because of the design of the suspension, solid bushings can cause binding which leads to unpredictable handling, so stick to rubber unless you are confident in diagnosing and tuning suspension issues.
Rykilla303
> S65
10/31/2016 at 14:38 |
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i’ll be “that guy”... want a v8/manual fox body? just start with one. :)
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S65
> Rykilla303
10/31/2016 at 14:41 |
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That was the nicest Fox I could find though
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Rykilla303
> S65
10/31/2016 at 14:46 |
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i believe it. clean ones take time to find. but i still bet you’d be better off waiting than building.